World of Tanks

The Armor of the UDES 16. A guide

WorldofTanks2 - The Armor of the UDES 16. A guide
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So… well… I am sitting right now in class about plastics. Ohh boy, it is very interesting hence why I am on reddit :V Anyway, as the last post was well received I want to do a second one, today looking at the swedish T9 tank, the UDES 16. I will also make a video about it where I shot with e-25,su-122-44, jgtiger 88, grille 15, 268V4, Jgpze100 and amx 30b at the Udes 16, once with top and once with stock turret. I'll post a link here when i made the video ( will still take more then 10 hours because lectures today are too long .-.). If you want to keep up to date I just casually slip my YouTube channel link here.

Okey so first things first before we look at the turrets,

The Hull:

Lets start with something the stock and top tank have in common, the hull. Overall it is the same thing as the T10 tank just a bit worse here and there. If you look at the tank frontally you will notice that it has two big plates on its engine deck. Those are 50mm thick. Like the T10 tank, the driver hatch is not a weakspot and is not part of the damage model. Everything beside the plates is 45mm thick deck armor, meaning every gun with a caliber greater then 135mm has overmatch on it when they shoot AP or APCR. Sidearmor is just 40mm meaning everything above 120mm has overmatch ( hence why I also took the SU-122-44). Sidearmor does not have spaced armor plates like the T10 had. The T10 also had 50mm side armor.

If you look frontally at the hull you will notice that the Udes 16 lacks a proper upper front plate. It goes seemingly from its lowerplate which is 60mm thick to its engine deck which is 45mm to 50mm thick depending if you get the plates. That is however WRONG ! Something weird is that there is a part of upper plate armor which is at a pretty bad angle. Again this does NOT show in the live model, just in the damage model. If you remember, the T10 had the same issue with its gunmantlet! So shooting at the transition between engine deck and lower plate is actually very weak and just a bad angled 60mm plate. Also it has side faces like the Ferdinand / Tiger P which are also rather weak above the tracks. Also it has the same 20mm weak underside like the T10 tank and can get penned and detracked frontally.

Other then that, butt of the hull is 20mm thick and should be easy pen for any tank. And wheelies will love this tank. Side armor 40mm, butt 20mm on the hull. Easy free dmg.

The Stock Turret:

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The Stock turret is pretty weird. It has overall more armor then the Topturret but at a worse angle. When I was playing through the UDES 16 the Stock turret felt okey, not bad tbh. The stock turret has a thicker plate on the right side ( when you look at it frontally ) which is 105mm thick but at a worse angle then the left side which is 70mm thick. The cupola on the left side hangs low and is placed somewhat in the middle of the turret. Effective armor, around 150-180mm depending on the angle. Both E-25 and SU-122-44 had around a 40-50% chance of penning there. The thicker side has also a cupola which is sitting on the top of the turret face. Its 150mm nominal armor and can get a bit more effective because of steep angle. In total cupolas feel the same to the T10 tank, just weaker.

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When we get bigger caliber guns and more penetrating guns I would suggest to aim for the right side of the stock turret. The armor is better at 105mm but the angle is much worse then on the left side which is 70mm. At normal hull down, t10 TD's shouldn't struggle penetrating the turret face. Lower tiers I still suggest to aim for the cupolas or the "lip"/ upper plate I mentioned earlier. Against HE however the Stock turret felt more resilient! Side is pretty weak at max of 40mm and it is bigger then the top turret. Back is just 20mm thick but you got a door for the shell ejection system. Its 20mm of spaced armor which can hold of HE shots! So be careful where you aim at the back of the turret.

The Top Turret:

The Top turret is the polar opposite of the stock turret. More angling, less nominal armor. Smaller cupola weakspots but more semiweakspots at the hinge of the gun. So yeah the cupolas as the T10 tank are small but not too strong at 150mm armor. The interesting part is that if you look at the T9 Top turrets gunhinges you will notice that it has two plates. They are also 150mm thick and can be hit when the tank is hull down. The left side of the turret is better angled but over all weaker against high caliber AP guns. Grille 15 can penetrate half of the left side, the half which is closer to the gun. It is 45mm thick. The right side of the left side ( yeah I know, wording), is 50mm thick and can be penetrated via overmatch by anything greater then 150mm. The right side of the turret face is 70mm thick and there is no gun in the game able to overmatch it with AP. If you shoot HEAT with high caliber guns I would suggest to aim for the right side of the turret face as the 70mm armor is at a much worse angle then the 45/50mm parts of he left face.

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Overall it has sadly overmatching parts for high caliber guns and has a weak right side against heat rounds. Other then that the turret is pretty strong, BUT HE is more effective on the top turret because of general worse armor. Same with the T10 tank the gun mounting roof is 20mm thick and is easily overmatched / penned by AP / HE.

In conclusion:

You notice the difference between the T9 and T10 tanks armor. There is a notable upgrade in armor when you jump up a tier ( not like the AMX M4 51 to AMX M4 54 lul). Both turrets have weakspots which can be penned by tanks 2 tiers lower at a 50% rate when they shoot standard rounds. Lower plate frontally is a wet joke and just screams: " SHOOT AT ME". Plus the added benefit is that you might damage / destroy the fuel tanks and its burn baby burn for the Udes 16.

Thank you a lot for your attention and I hope I was able to help you pen the T9 tank. Again, video with all the examples and armor models should be released by 22:00 ( 10PM) CEST. Let me know what I could try to do better and what tanks I should also use for pentesting. Either as tested or being tested.

Also for people wondering, The T8 tank has 35mm engine deck armor means 105mm and smaller guns have autobounce. turret is 60mm thick. So Always go for the turret if possible.

Don't forget to keep up to date with my posts over here and thank you again!

Kind regards

RagingRaptor

Edits: Grammar and links

Source: Original link


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